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Sports Cards

Collecting sports cards is just too much fun not to do a section on them as well.


Speak Softly and Carry a Big Stick
Speak Softly and Carry a Big Stick
Buy this Art Print at AllPosters.com

* Cards are valued based on their condition. Although it can be broken down on a more minuet level the basics of the card grading system are:

Mint (MT)
Near Mint - Mint (NRMT-MT)
Excellent - Mint (EXMT)
Excellent (EX)
Very Good (VG)
Good (G)
Fair (F
Poor (P)

* A Mint card would be determined by four sharp corners, picture centered on card left-right & top-bottom, smooth edges, smooth card with no creases or damage, original color and not faded. As one or more of these areas begins to deteriorate then the card begins to lose value.

* Cards are sold as either retail or hobby packs.

Retail packs are sold through the big retail chains such as Wal-mart and contain more common cards.

Hobby packs are sold through the hobby shops or card stores and usually sell for a little more and contain more star cards and more inserts.

Boxes of hobby packs and often the packs themselves have an "H" or the work "Hobby" printed on the outside to designate them as hobby cards.

* An insert is a card placed in a pack which has some special promotional value such as being signed by the player, having a piece of his jersey attached ot it etc.

* Rookie card is the first card of a given player and usually his most valuable card.

* Common cards. An average player and usually worth less than $1.00

* Star cards. The high balue cards worth any where from a couple dollars for the minor stars to thousands for highly desired cards.

* Beckett is the recognized authority on how cards are priced. They produce monthly and annual publications as well as a web site. Of course like anything else a card's real worth is what someone will pay for it.

* A dealer usually pays about half of retail value for a card. A little less if he thinks it will be hard to sell. A little more if it is a hot card that would turn over quickly.

* The big online auction houses like Ebay and Yahoo have lots of cards listed so check them out as a place to buy or sell.

* If your into collecting baseball memorabilia these days age makes a big difference in value. Cards from recent stars have fallen in value; however, cards from the 1970s and earlier when there were fewer card sets produced are still appreciating in value. So many sets of current stars have flooded the market that prices on current stars may never appreciate in value the way older material has over the years.

If you are into other memorabilia such as jerseys, gloves, bats, and signed baseballs the prices for older material has skyrocketed so much lately that forgeries have become a real concern to collectors and you will need to get the piece authenticated to realize its true value when you sell it. Cost can run from around $20 to around $1000 for authentication. If a piece is not authenticated then "buyer beware." Before paying much for a piece don't take a chance! Get a certificate of authenticity.

One of the best methods to authenticate a piece is to buy where the "chain of ownership" can be verified. That is each owner of the piece can be verified up to the present owner.

The Thrift Meister's `67 Mantle--alway his favorite card from the time it came out of a pack of topps bubble gum in 1967. Nope, its not for sale.

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